Heritage 441 - 30th Anniversary Planner

The Heritage 441 Run - 30th Anniversary Edition

The Asheville Route, days two thru six

(Sunday, 18 August - Thursday, 22 August 2013)
On our last trip, we didn't make it to Asheville, and the Biltmore Mansion that Ann really wanted to see. As hard as I tried to shoehorn it into the plan, it was always half a day extra, more or less, and we really didn't have the time to spare. This time, we planned it in from the start! We're renting a "tree house", called the Wild Turkey's Roost, just east of Asheville in Black Mountain. It's not so much a tree house as it is a house in the trees, or at least surrounded by trees...

We're spending five days here, close enough to Asheville and The Biltmore Estate to spend a couple days exploring there, and within 2 hours of just about anything else. We thought about visiting the Nantahala area and riding the Smoky Mountain Railway again, but the more we thought about it, the more we realized that there isn't much to do there once you get off the train. Cherokee? We both agreed we had taken in enough native american legend and lore in previous trips as well.

Our plans were still up in the air at the point we left home. Ann was looking at more to do the week before we left. From the sound of it, or at least from Ann's research, there will be plenty to keep us busy - perhaps with even more to see. We figure it will take us at least two days to investigate the Biltmore Estate, maybe three. Then there's Black Mountain and the surrounding area where we're staying. It looks like there will be a fair amount of Americana all around us to explore. At least a day's worth, if not more. This part of the plan is still not clear and we'll be playing it by ear as we go.

Black Mountain, day two...

(Sunday, 18 August 2013)
We are both excited to have a place to stay for the week and not have to worry about making it to the "next stop" for a while. We're even happier to be here. The rush hour traffic through Asheville on I-40 was not fun. We're both still stuffed from Dillard House, and aren't really thinking about food just yet... Wow. This place is something else! We're hiking to our tree house. Actually, it's downhill to our treehouse from the "parking lot" above. Thankfully it's around 5:00 PM and still light out. I'd hate to have to find my way around in the dark.

A couple of "hikes" up to the car and back and we're getting settled in, still checking out all the amenities. Our first impression is how big this place is, even for being the smallest of three treehouses. It's not so much wide as tall. There is even a loft with a bed to sleep in! Our best impression is overlooking the rest of the area from our "back porch", high above where we drove in from. This is awesome! It will be even more awesome once the A/C kicks in. After a quick trip back down to the shoppes we saw on the way in, and to let the A/C catch up, we're in for the night.

And it's a good thing we're in for the night too. Soon after we sit down out on the porch, it starts to rain. It's so nice to be able to sit out here and not have a care in the world, taking it all in. The later it gets, the cooler it gets. Ann is sporting a blanket. Eventually it gets too cold outside even for me and we head inside for the night. Well, except for the occasional trip back out for a cigarette. And before you start, I made it my resolution to quit smoking, and I have (2018).

Black Mountain, day three...

(Monday, 19 August 2013)
We're getting a late start today, taking our time and coming to life. We stopped at the Ingle's grocery store last night, after getting unpacked, to pick up a few things so we could make breakfast this morning. Scrambled eggs with smoked swiss cheese, biscuits, leftover ham from Dillard House, coffee and orange juice. We sit out on the balcony and enjoy our feast. It's already past eleven!

We get ready and head into downtown Black Mountain and Cherry Street, a little after noon. It reminds us of Mount Dora back home in Florida. We started looking in all the little shops at the the knick - knacks and Ann finds a pair of earrings. From there we head to the hardware store and it's big. By the time we're done there, our two hour parking has almost expired, so we move the car and continue our window shopping.

After that wonderful breakfast, and even more shopping, we're getting hungry. We finally settle on the Dark City Cafe. It features local brews and sandwiches and such made from locally grown items. We sit outside to enjoy the comfortably cool weather here, but get to "enjoy" some rather loud construction types, apparently done for the day, and winding down. We couldn't help overhearing, and I chuckle at a couple things they say, but didn't thank them for sharing.

By now it's already after four, so we head back to the treehouse. We take a hike down the trail to the little creek we cross coming and going in the car. Looks like there have been times it was a lot deeper than it is now. There are a couple of tomboys playing in the creek, and once their dog spots us, comes running up to greet us. One of them corrals the dog, but Ann tells her she doesn't have to hold the dog, so we make another new friend.

We continue a bit further, but turn back and call it a day. Time to relax and get ready for tomorrow. Ann does more research on her tablet and eventually buys our tickets to the Biltmore Estate online. Thank goodness for tethering since the WiFi here ain't so good!

Asheville, day four...

(Tuesday, 20 August 2013)
The Biltmore Estate. What can I say? Breathtaking? Maybe. Backbreaking? Definitely. First we took the audio tour of the house. The audio tour is really just a remote control thingy with a strap you wear around your neck. Each item featured has an associated number you punch into the device, then hold up to your ear and listen to an audio clip about that item.

My arms were getting sore after about ten minutes. Headphones would be nice, speakerphone better, but then everyone who didn't pay would hear it I guess. The tour took over an hour and involves climbing up and down the stairs. Four floors, plus the basement and sub basement. Unfortunately, the second floor was closed for renovation, but still an impressive monument to Victorian living.

After our self guided tour, we stopped for lunch at the Stables Cafe, built in the actual stables. While we waited to be seated, we browsed some of the shops. It's nice to finally be able to sit down for a spell, relax with a few Cedric's Ales, and a nice lunch. Cedric was the family's beloved St. Bernard. There is a monument dedicated to him on the grounds.

After our short rest for lunch, we set out on the guided butler's tour, a journey into the past and the behind the scenes workings of the house from the vantage point of the house staff. It includes the living quarters, elevator, dumbwaiters, generators - both AC and DC, refrigeration, kitchens, and the boilers. More stairs to go up and down...

When we are finally finished with the house, we head back to the shops we missed before lunch. We sample some wines, and after telling the kind lady we are celebrating our 30th Anniversary, she gives us a bottle of wine for free! Wow... We finish up at the Confectioners, and head to the gardens. By now we're pretty beat, but manage to make it down to the Conservatory and back.

That's it. That's all the walking we can handle for one day and head back to the car. From there, it's Antler Hill Village and dinner at the Bistro. We both have the Filet, but first enjoy a cheese sampler, saving some bleu cheese for our steaks. We are both thoroughly satisfied and thoroughly exhausted and head back to the tree house. What a day!

Asheville, day five...

(Wednesday, 21 August 2013)
More Biltmore? Yep. Back to Antler Hill Village and more walking. First we wake up and try to brace ourselves for more "touring". Ann makes us breakfast sandwiches with the rest of the eggs, the rest of ham from the Dillard House, and the rest of the smoked swiss... and sliced peaches with yogurt. Not much, but it's about all we want after all the rich food and drink yesterday.

Today's adventure begins at Antler Hill Village, a modern tourist version of the old farm and horse barn, dressed up for families and kids. There are a number of "attractions" for the kiddies, including a playground, shrub maze, and the Land Rover driving challenge... Not sure what that's all about, but the kids there seemed to be having a fun time. There's also a petting zoo of sorts, where you can walk around with all the chickens. The sheep, goats, and horses are penned or fenced.

We start at the farthest end with the original old horse barn, moving on to the kitchen garden, then the petting zoo so Ann can commune with her favorite, the goats. After our walk, we inspect the woodworking shop, the smithy, and the mercantile. As we finish our browsing, the woman behind the counter tells us the blacksmith is about to start his demonstration, so off we go, heading in that direction.

I know what you're thinking... So I'm going to use the smith's own words. Rather than another boring demonstration of how to make a nail, he's going to show us how he makes a decorative leaf keyfob. He pulls the one out of his pocket so we can see what the finished product looks like. He tells us about the color of the flames and the metal and how they correspond to different temperatures. All in all a very interesting demonstration. Considering his family has been doing it for four hundred years, a very instructive demonstration.

From there, Cedric's Tavern for a late lunch and a couple more of Cedric's Brown Ales. For dessert, the creamery for some ice cream. By now we're too stuffed to do the wine tasting, so we take in the Vanderbuilt Legacy exhibit, a look at the family life of the Vanderbuilts... but I'm distracted by someone's Grandma letting one rip on us, and it just keeps going. Time to vacate the area at the very least - thanks Grandma!

Eventually we do end up at the Winery, but decide not to partake of the free wine tasting, preferring the comfortable seating at the bar for a paid taste of the sparkling wines. Ann had spied a box earlier that she surmised must contain three bottles of wine, so we're off to choose our three bottles. With box in hand, we head to the car, and back to the treehouse. By now it's nearly five and we're ready to collapse.

And collapse we do. Our heads hit the pillows... And two hours later we wake up. I turn on the tube and Ann does some more research on Asheville. Turns out they have a tour trolley like the ones in St. Augustine. Sounds like a plan. I want to update with today's pictures, but I'm too pooped to do anything but lay here. Oh well, there's always tomorrow.

Asheville, day six...

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(Thursday, 22 August 2013)
More Asheville? Yep. We decided to drive into Asheville and take the Trolley Tour. Both glad we did, but although those seats were padded, they were hard as a rock. We would have been lost in no time trying to find all the places we saw. Unfortunately, nothing really jumped out at us as far as things to go explore and do on our own.

Neither of us had anything to eat, and it was already getting to be around 3:00, so we headed back to Black Mountain to find a place to eat. After making what we thought was a wrong turn, we came across a wood fired pizza place, and enjoyed some really good pizza and a few more local ales. Now that we're stuffed again, we head back to the treehouse, and wander down the trails to the local shops to get some ice cream for dessert.

Now it's time to plan the exact route for our trip tomorrow as we leave this wonderfully peaceful setting. I'm struggling with the routes, trying to save some driving, with Ann's shoulder bothering her more the longer we drive. That and her eyes drying up from wearing her contacts all day. Looks like we'll have to pass on following the New River and crossing that bridge this time. Oh well, maybe next time...

The Asheville to Cass Scenic Railway Route, day seven

(Friday, 23 August 2013)
From here we'll set out for the Cass Scenic Railway National Park in West Virginia. At first, we thought we'd be crossing into Virginia first, to follow the New River Gorge as far as we could, then cross over the New River on I-64, and finally follow US19 back over the New River on the tallest steel arch span bridge in the US.

Looks like we'll be saving that for another time. It adds nearly two hours to the trip, through some rugged mountain roads, and near the end of the journey when Ann's likely to have more problems with her shoulder and her eyes. Rather than push too hard, we'll take it easy and play it safe. At least we'll get to see the New River, and cross over it briefly, using the expedient route.

We're heading to Cass Scenic Railway, to take the railfan trip to Bald Knob, with a Shay engine to pull us through the multiple switchbacks, and up insane grades, to the top, at an elevation of 4,842 feet. Well, it's not quite the top, but it's close enough, at 4,700 feet, to the third highest point in West Virginia. We'll spend the night in a restored company house, set out to Bald Knob and back the next day, then the Dinner Train that evening, and back to the company house for another night.